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Двойственное название Дерри говорит о непростой истории

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Дерри/Лондондерри – второй по величине после Белфаста город в Северной Ирландии и четвертый на острове

Этому симпатичному, раскинувшемуся на холмах в долине реки Фойл, городу сильно «досталось» от конфликтов протестантов с католиками, особенно в период The Troubles. И до сих пор, как я уже раньше писала, отношения между жителями напряженные. Печальным примером может служить произошедший во время недавнего официального визита королевы Елизаветы II в Дерри взрыв (к счастью никто не пострадал), ставший своего рода кульминацией беспорядков и манифестаций, прокатившихся по Ирландии в связи с этими событиями.

Надо признать, долго и основательно мне по этому городу погулять и многое посмотреть не удалось, но я постараюсь подробнее рассказать о Дерри. И компенсирую недостаток фотографий музыкой:)

Через город протекает река Foyle, на холмах в долине которой и расположен Дерри.

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Изначально город строился на холме на западном берегу реки, сейчас этот район называют Cityside, восточный берег – Waterside, обе эти части города соединяются двумя мостами – Craigavon Bridge и Foyle Bridge.

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В городе и ближайших пригородах проживает около 110 тыс. человек, здесь есть морской порт (Londonderry Port) и аэропорт (City of Derry Airport). Дерри находится рядом с границей графства Донегол Республики Ирландия, с которым на протяжении веков у города были прочные связи.

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Название города – Derry – является англизированным ирландским Doire или Doire Cholmcille, означающим «дубовая роща св. Колумбы». Однако, самым первым названием места, где сейчас стоит город было ирландское Daire Calgaich – «дубовая роща Calgach» (по одной из версий Calgach – это ирландское имя древнего каледонского вождя Calgacus, который с войсками сражался с римлянами под предводительством Агриколы и потерпел поражение в битве у Граупийских гор в 83 году).

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В VI в. здесь был основан христианский монастырь

Считается, что его основателем был Св. Колумба, и поселение получило его имя, первое упоминание о котором в Хрониках Ольстера датируется 1121 г. Во времена, когда в Ирландию приплыли викинги, монастырю Дерри удалось избежать разрушений. Поселение разрасталось и процветало на протяжении XII-XIII вв., когда здесь правила династия Mac Lochlainn, но с гибелью этого семейства и средневековый Дерри пришел в упадок. Во второй половине XVI в. англичане предпринимали попытки завоевать Ольстер – единственную часть острова, неподвластную им. Впервые английские войска появились в Дерри в 1566 г., но гарнизон продержался тут всего несколько лет, затем еще один гарнизон прибыл в 1600 г. во время 9-тилетней войны с кланами O’Neil и O’Donnell. В 1604 г. небольшому торговому поселению королем Яковом I была дарована первая королевская грамота и Дерри получил статус города. Однако уже в 1608 г. город был разрушен Cahir O’Doherty, вождем Inishowen. Этот период в истории Великобритании принято называть Plantation of Ulster – колонизация земель Северной Ирландии протестантами – переселенцами из Англии и Шотландии. В 1613 г. Яковом I Дерри снова была дарована королевская грамота и к названию добавилась «приставка» «Лондон», а также было образовано одноименное графство. Несмотря на то, что город больше известен как Дерри, его официальным наименованием и по сей день остается Лондондерри.

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Собственно, споры по поводу названия города до сих пор не утихают: республиканцы (католики) называют его Дерри, в то время как юнионисты (протестанты) – Лондондерри. В 1984 г. католикам удалось добиться того, что Городской совет сменил свое наименование с Londonderry City Counsel на Derry. Юнионисты видели в этом угрозу всплеска анти-британских настроений среди населения. В 1994 г. и аэропорт удалось переименовать из Londonderry Eglinton Airport в Derry City Airport. В 2006 г. были попытки добиться переименования города в Derry, однако Верховный Суд Северной Ирландии постановил, что название города остается прежним, как это было указано в королевских грамотах XVII в. Несмотря на это, в последние годы продолжаются дебаты по этому вопросу – предлагается, например, изменить написание на LondonDerry, или вообще переименовать город в DoireLondonDerry. В общем, пока предпочтение тому или иному варианту названия служит признаком того, по какую сторону баррикад находится тот или иной человек. Нередко можно увидеть, как на дорожных указателях краской замазано London в названии, или вообще вместо этого добавлено слово Free. Зачастую и в прессе и официальными лицами употребляется наименование Derry.

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В 2007 г. бурно обсуждался случай с туристом из Канады, который в кассе хотел приобрести билет до Дерри, но кассир ему сказал, что такого города не существует. В прессе была поднята шумиха и автобусная компания вынуждена была «разобраться» со своим работником и принести извинения. Да и сейчас будучи в Дерри нужно поосторожнее быть с названием – хозяин какого-нибудь магазинчика или кафе может запросто выпроводить вас на улицу, если услышит что вы называете город так, как ему не по душе. Ну или в ваш адрес может высказать что-нибудь неприятное прохожий. В общем пока наиболее «безопасный» способ – это называть город DerryLondonderry. Также часто название города пишут как L’derry или L-Derry. Ирландский комик Dara O’Briain как-то выступая в городе пошутил со сцены: «Hello, my name is Dara or, if you prefer, you can call me Londondara». Ну и на сленге Лондондерри частенько называют Fat Lad, а Дерри Fat Dad.

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В XVII в. в Дерри развернулось бурное строительство. Город был тщательно спланирован в соответствии со всеми тогдашними градостроительными нормами, а также вокруг возвели различные фортификационные сооружения. В те времена Дерри был крупнейшим спланированным поселением на Британских островах. Дерри еще примечателен тем, что он был последним в Ирландии городом, обнесенным каменными стенами и эти стены прекрасно сохранились до наших времен. Стены были возведены в период 1613-1619 гг. и общая их протяженность примерно 1,5 км. Ширина стен в среднем составляет 4 м, высота 12 м. Отлично сохранились и 4 первых городских ворот. Насколько мне известно, сейчас по верху стен водят экскурсии. Наверное, со стен открываются красивые виды на город и прилегающие территории.

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Девиз города – “Vita, Veritas, Victoria” (Жизнь, Истина, Победа)

Мой взгляд еще привлекли часто встречающиеся изображения герба Дерри. Исследователи высказывают различные версии о происхождении этого герба. Например, считается, что замок означает располагавшийся неподалеку в XIV в. Greencastle, принадлежавший англо-норманнскому правителю Ольстера Richard de Burgh. Скелет «приписывают» кузену этого самого де Бурга, который умер от голода в 1332 г., заключенный в одну из башен замка. Также скелет может изображать казненного Cahir O’Doherty. Католики также называют свою любопытную версию – мол, скелет изображает местного беднягу, до смерти замученного бюрократическими проволочками во времена дискриминации католиков протестантами.

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Внутри городских стен сохранилось несколько старинных зданий. Среди них The Guildhall – центр политической и культурной жизни города. Здесь заседают представители местных органов власти, а также проводится Derry Feis – соревнования в различных видах ирландского традиционного искусства.

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Перед Guildhall небольшая (по нашим меркам:) площадь, которую с одной стороны ограничивает Tower Museum (о нем я расскажу в следующем посте) и магазин с польскими деликатесами (так гласит вывеска:)

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а еще на площади устроен такой вот забавный фонтан – струи воды в нем периодически бьют прямо “из-под земли”. Меня умилила эта собачка, которая специально скакала по плитам, откуда били струи, они ее валили с ног – ну в общем животное резвилось вовсю:)

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Шпиль католического собора St Eugene’s Cathedral (работы по его возведению длились с 1849 г. по 1873 г.)

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В центре шпиль еще одного собора, но англиканского (точнее относится к Церкви Ирландии). St Columb’s Cathedral был построен в 1633 г. и является старейшим зданием в Дерри.

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Из интересных музеев в Дерри есть, например, Amelia Earhart Centre And Wildlife Sanctuary, расположенный на том самом месте, где эта легендарная женщина приземлилась 21 мая 1932 г. после своего первого одиночного перелета через Атлантику. Для интересующихся старинными поездами и парвозами интересным может оказаться Foyle Valley Railway Centre. Еще можно посетить the Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall (про этих мальчиков-подмастерьев и их роли в истории Дерри я попозже расскажу), и многочисленные памятники и граффити, посвященные конфликту протестантов и католиков.

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По материалам lady-in-dublin.livejournal

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